G
Guest
mine does the same, using the AFL button too, but my shots are nevertheless in focus ... could it be compensated in some way?
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Review Contax T3
- Thread starter dirk
- Start date
... maybe I expresed it in th ewrong way. The autofocus is focussing sharp also in the normal AF position. It was just the question at what point in the viewing screen the AF sensor starts to "catch" the object. So if you know where this point is- identical to the markings, just even more over the right bracket - then there is no problem, because you know how to hold the camera.
dirk
dirk
G
Guest
> Hi Dirk, I have to say I agree with you - its not really a problem, since all you need to do is imagine that the focus mark is perhaps a couple of "widths" further to the right.
But its extremely poor that you should have to do this with a P&S camera that retails for $1000 here in the UK. My $100 Ixus does a better job than that.
If the problem is as widespread as it seems to be, isn't it about time Contax fixed it!!!!
Cheers,
Mark.
But its extremely poor that you should have to do this with a P&S camera that retails for $1000 here in the UK. My $100 Ixus does a better job than that.
If the problem is as widespread as it seems to be, isn't it about time Contax fixed it!!!!
Cheers,
Mark.
G
Guest
On the subject of T3 autofocussing, I have a curious little story to tell.
I bought a T3 in 2001 and found that it consistently focussed short, so much so that most frames on several rolls of film were obviously unsharp. I figured out for myself all the idiosyncrasies of the AF framing areas detailed in numerous postings above, so I knew the problem was not my own inexperience.
The local Contax agents in Sydney were very helpful and sent the camera back to Contax Japan for review. Contax Japan checked the camera out and found no problem.
But when I got the camera back I found it was still focussing short.
The camera went back to Japan twice more for a total of three times, and each time Contax said they found no problem.
After the camera came back for the third time I tested it again. By this time I had used about 20 rolls of film on testing.
Lo and behold it now focussed perfectly and continues to do so. In fact the T3 is now one of the most accurate focussing cameras in low light that I have ever used.
But I am left wondering what really happened and why it apparently spontaneously changed from inaccurate to accurate autofocus.
By the way I really like using the T3 and the results are excellent. Wish the controls were just a bit larger though.......
I bought a T3 in 2001 and found that it consistently focussed short, so much so that most frames on several rolls of film were obviously unsharp. I figured out for myself all the idiosyncrasies of the AF framing areas detailed in numerous postings above, so I knew the problem was not my own inexperience.
The local Contax agents in Sydney were very helpful and sent the camera back to Contax Japan for review. Contax Japan checked the camera out and found no problem.
But when I got the camera back I found it was still focussing short.
The camera went back to Japan twice more for a total of three times, and each time Contax said they found no problem.
After the camera came back for the third time I tested it again. By this time I had used about 20 rolls of film on testing.
Lo and behold it now focussed perfectly and continues to do so. In fact the T3 is now one of the most accurate focussing cameras in low light that I have ever used.
But I am left wondering what really happened and why it apparently spontaneously changed from inaccurate to accurate autofocus.
By the way I really like using the T3 and the results are excellent. Wish the controls were just a bit larger though.......
G
Guest
I would like to use Agfa Scala film in the Contax T3. As there is no manual override on this camera, how will I be able to set the ISO on this vary-speed film. If I am not able to set the ISO, at what ISO will the film be exposed at when the camera reads the bar codes
Tyhanks for any help with this one. If anyone has any experiences with SCALA and its performance, I would like to hear from you.
Many thanks
Greg Clements
Tyhanks for any help with this one. If anyone has any experiences with SCALA and its performance, I would like to hear from you.
Many thanks
Greg Clements
G
Guest
Greg,
the ISO setting with the T3 is automatic (DX). If you want to have a different setting, you can only change this by using the exposure compensation of the T3. There is no "real" manual ISO setting on the body.
the ISO setting with the T3 is automatic (DX). If you want to have a different setting, you can only change this by using the exposure compensation of the T3. There is no "real" manual ISO setting on the body.
G
Guest
I have used Scala in the T3. It reads the film at ISO 200. If you want to change the ISO you could use the exposure compensation dial. Changing the ISO speed is the same as dialling in compensation, except that changing ISO is done before metering and exposure compensation is done after metering.
E.G. Exposing ISO200 film at ISO400 means the meter will provide an exposure for a one stop faster film, therefore it will be one stop under exposed. Setting -1 on the exposure dial gives the same effect. Just be sure to push process the film.
As for Scala as a film, it is superb and I use a lot of it. Its scans beautifully but enlargements from a lab will tend to show a colour cast, usually green or magenta. Digital prints do not have the cast as it can be removed as part of the scanning process. Seeing Scala slides through a projector is just amazing, it is a great slide film.
Accurate exposure is a must, Scala is very unforgiving, but even at ISO 1600 the results are excellent. Here is a link to some of my Scala scans:
www.monochromeimage.com
This site is under construction so it is not too good yet! The descriptions under the images say whay film was used. Be sure that your monitor is calibrated or some of the images will not look too good as you will lose the shadow detail.
Simon
E.G. Exposing ISO200 film at ISO400 means the meter will provide an exposure for a one stop faster film, therefore it will be one stop under exposed. Setting -1 on the exposure dial gives the same effect. Just be sure to push process the film.
As for Scala as a film, it is superb and I use a lot of it. Its scans beautifully but enlargements from a lab will tend to show a colour cast, usually green or magenta. Digital prints do not have the cast as it can be removed as part of the scanning process. Seeing Scala slides through a projector is just amazing, it is a great slide film.
Accurate exposure is a must, Scala is very unforgiving, but even at ISO 1600 the results are excellent. Here is a link to some of my Scala scans:
www.monochromeimage.com
This site is under construction so it is not too good yet! The descriptions under the images say whay film was used. Be sure that your monitor is calibrated or some of the images will not look too good as you will lose the shadow detail.
Simon
G
Guest
I contacted Photo-Equip on the grip concept. He needs at least a couple dozen orders to design and produce a grip. If someone wants to assist in organizing such a order, count me in. I just bought a T-3 as a supplement to my Nikon F5/N80 system since I'm tired of missing shots when I can't carry the larger, heavier equipment. It is great to know that I can get equivalent fine work from this little gem. Ergonomically, I have no problems with it. I did get the 200 flash and bracket and the latter certainly adds to the handling comfort factor. To echo Dirk, one camera cannot do everything and this little wonder has a very very valuable niche.
Bruce Fichelson
barister@jps.net
Bruce Fichelson
barister@jps.net
G
Guest
Hi Mark.
I have bought a T3 and I have tried three other T3s: they all have the same "problem" - the focus zone is shifted to the right!
I guess that is not a problem. Maybe it has to do with the "close-up parallax frame" which is also shifted to the right...
Best regards.
I have bought a T3 and I have tried three other T3s: they all have the same "problem" - the focus zone is shifted to the right!
I guess that is not a problem. Maybe it has to do with the "close-up parallax frame" which is also shifted to the right...
Best regards.
G
Guest
Dirk, what does Contax have to say about this apparent focus zone which is shifted to the right? Seems to be a strange phenomenon. Appreciate your info.
Bruce Fichelson
barister@jps.net
Bruce Fichelson
barister@jps.net