G
Guest
About the 85mm f/1.8... Look for the one with the rubber ficus ring - they are the multi-coated models and are often found already converted to AI.
DPR Forum
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G
Guest
I guess I'll be going to the hardware store tomorrow to pick up some tools
Best of regards,
Karl
Best of regards,
Karl
G
Guest
Some of the tools might be hard to find or to small to be carried by a hardware store.
Check this place,you can ask for their catalog but it will take a while to arrive so if you need any tool or anything that you find there you better order online or by phone:
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=MT
By the way, if any of you is a bit picky as me with the finish of the camera or lenses, check the Birchman(sp)formulas for alluminum and brass finish.
Check this place,you can ask for their catalog but it will take a while to arrive so if you need any tool or anything that you find there you better order online or by phone:
http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=MT
By the way, if any of you is a bit picky as me with the finish of the camera or lenses, check the Birchman(sp)formulas for alluminum and brass finish.
I
ian_palmer
Hi
I have an FM2n and have been using it for many years now. My old F601 has been used as a second body and I am thinking of adding a FM3a as well.
Would anyone care to comment on whether the FE2 type meter is difficult to use in low light conditions like in a church? The advantage of the FM2 is that the little LED's are always clear and so low light is not a problem.
Thanks
Ian
I have an FM2n and have been using it for many years now. My old F601 has been used as a second body and I am thinking of adding a FM3a as well.
Would anyone care to comment on whether the FE2 type meter is difficult to use in low light conditions like in a church? The advantage of the FM2 is that the little LED's are always clear and so low light is not a problem.
Thanks
Ian
E
Enitka
> Ian - The FM3a suffers from not having LED- it is the moving needle > display which is fine if the left hand view is not in the dark - I > would NOT recommend the FM3a for available light even though I have > one for sale. Then again i don't use any MF SLR for available light.
ernie
ernie
B
bobar57
The FE2 type meter is not difficult at all to use in low light conditions.The FE2 and the FM3A share the same type of meter, in fact they're almost identical cameras , even in external design. I think that the only differnce between them is the hybrid shutter that the FM3A have, otherwise all others features are identicals, with the exception of the focusing screen. The FM3A have a more brighter focusing screen that allows you to use it with more ease in manual mode in low light conditions. In both cameras if you set them to AE mode you don't have to worry about the metering and the screen allow you enough light to focus.
Anyhow if you own a FE2 I recommend you to change the focusing screen to one of the three screens that the FM3A use(K3-the standard,B3 or E3). No exposure compensation is requiredif you exchange the screen. The same applies for the FM2 (new type)(FM2n);you can use on them the focusing screens of the FM3A-which are more brighter-without needing exposure compensation. This is explained in page 47 of the Instruction Manual of the FM3A(at the botton,fine print), and several owners of FE2 and FM2n had corrobored it.
For a bit more of information read this:
http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm3a/index.htm
There are 8 pages of information about the FM3A, this site also contains information about ALL manal Nikon cameras produced since the the start up to date. A very well done and informative site.
NOTE: IN a previous post I gave a link to Micro-Tools that did not work, here is the correct one;
http://www.micro-tools.com/
Good Luck, Ian
Anyhow if you own a FE2 I recommend you to change the focusing screen to one of the three screens that the FM3A use(K3-the standard,B3 or E3). No exposure compensation is requiredif you exchange the screen. The same applies for the FM2 (new type)(FM2n);you can use on them the focusing screens of the FM3A-which are more brighter-without needing exposure compensation. This is explained in page 47 of the Instruction Manual of the FM3A(at the botton,fine print), and several owners of FE2 and FM2n had corrobored it.
For a bit more of information read this:
http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm3a/index.htm
There are 8 pages of information about the FM3A, this site also contains information about ALL manal Nikon cameras produced since the the start up to date. A very well done and informative site.
NOTE: IN a previous post I gave a link to Micro-Tools that did not work, here is the correct one;
http://www.micro-tools.com/
Good Luck, Ian
Can anyone in the forum tell me if I'm making the wrong decision? I want to purchase an FM3a as my first slr. The only things I plan on taking photos of are trains in good weather and trains in bad weather. My wife has a digital p & s so I know we'll always have plenty of kids' birthday party pictures. I'm a complete beginner but I truly want to take the time to study photography. My only real concern is the viewfinder-I wear glasses so I'm hoping that they won't be a liability. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
T
Teabow
John,
I think you're making an excellant decision!I have been shooting Trains for about 23 years now,and for the last 19 years most of my shots where done with my trusty ole Nikon FM-2 and a Nikkor 50mm f1.8.A couple of years ago I bought a used Nikkor 200mm f4 and a Nikkor 28mm f3.5.I liked to shoot Kodachrome 64 and Kodachrome 200,
until Kodak started returning my slides with complimentary SCRATCHES. Then I shot neg. film and had the pictures put on Picture CDs.SO unless you are made of money you can't go wrong with nikon.If you are made of money consider German glass.German glass is usually better than
Japanese.I'd rate them like this,Leica 1,Contax/Zeiss 2, Nikon 3.Nikon definately beats the other japanese brands,(in my humble opinion)altough Canon makes great stuff also.My 2 cents worth.
I think you're making an excellant decision!I have been shooting Trains for about 23 years now,and for the last 19 years most of my shots where done with my trusty ole Nikon FM-2 and a Nikkor 50mm f1.8.A couple of years ago I bought a used Nikkor 200mm f4 and a Nikkor 28mm f3.5.I liked to shoot Kodachrome 64 and Kodachrome 200,
until Kodak started returning my slides with complimentary SCRATCHES. Then I shot neg. film and had the pictures put on Picture CDs.SO unless you are made of money you can't go wrong with nikon.If you are made of money consider German glass.German glass is usually better than
Japanese.I'd rate them like this,Leica 1,Contax/Zeiss 2, Nikon 3.Nikon definately beats the other japanese brands,(in my humble opinion)altough Canon makes great stuff also.My 2 cents worth.
Posted by Wolfgang Högerle (Rasdan) on Monday, July 21, 2003 - 10:20 am: > >hi, > >has someone from you experience with the objective MF 3,3-4,5/35-70 >and the SB-27?
I have never had the pleasure of using the SB-27 or any other Nikon flash unit. The Nikon flash units are high-quality units but they are too expensive for my budget. I found that the Vivitar 283 flash unit, which is about the same physical size as the SB-27) met my needs for a reasonable price.
I am not quite sure what the "objective MF 3,3-4,5/35-70" is. If you are referring to the Nikon 35mm to 70mm f2.8 zoom lens, then my response is no, I have never used one. I would, however, love to own one.
I have never had the pleasure of using the SB-27 or any other Nikon flash unit. The Nikon flash units are high-quality units but they are too expensive for my budget. I found that the Vivitar 283 flash unit, which is about the same physical size as the SB-27) met my needs for a reasonable price.
I am not quite sure what the "objective MF 3,3-4,5/35-70" is. If you are referring to the Nikon 35mm to 70mm f2.8 zoom lens, then my response is no, I have never used one. I would, however, love to own one.